A New Senseation

I could smell the spices before I even entered the restaurant—the heady, intoxicating scents of cumin, ginger and cardamom assailed my senses and warmed my body. I breathed deep, taking in the rich fragrances as they danced upon the salty ocean air; they seemed to leave trails of color in the dark sky. My dining guest and I quickened our pace as we approached the eatery, and the scents multiplied around us with every step, engulfing us in a rich blanket of spices. Then we opened the door, and our taste buds—so long dependent on bland American dishes and aching for something exotic, stimulating—buzzed with anticipation.

And that’s just the beginning of the culinary journey that awaits at Tamarind of London—an upscale dining establishment that recently made its U.S. debut at the Crystal Cove Promenade, bringing with it a reputation for preparing the best in Indian cuisine, much to the joy of O.C. foodies. (It’s the sister spot to the U.K.’s Michelin-starred Tamarind.) Your trip, like mine, might open with the aromas—what could be called the perfume—of Indian food. Or, it might start with the restaurant’s visually appealing atmosphere, which fuses Indian architecture and artwork with Western-inspired details.

Due to the restaurant’s layout, one of the first elements we laid eyes on was the display kitchen, which is located in the main dining area. Cooks bustle busily behind a large window, where three red tandoor ovens are located (more on the delicious items they’re churning out later). It’s all set off by deep lighting—also in red—found above the kitchen. That color is present throughout the establishment—on the tiles in the display kitchen, on some of the seat cushions—enriching the darker, earthy hues of the eatery with a vibrant pop. Another eye-catching factor is the ample use of patterns in the décor. Case in point: The dining area features floor-to-ceiling windows that are shaded by gold geometric screens, and massive, wrought-iron, bell-shaped lamps hang over the entire space. In the indoor patio: retractable walls, fire pits and the bar, which might lead you to your next sensation—taste. Here, you can order a signature cocktail, like the Tower of London, made with Oxley gin, muddled cucumber and basil, lime and simple syrup. It’s savory, not sweet—and it’s a welcome refreshment to any of the flavor-packed menu items, guaranteed. Or, there’s the restaurant’s wine list: 34 vinos by the glass, plus some to-die-for bottles, which are stored in a floor-to-ceiling glass cellar.

Of course, it’s really about the food at Tamarind—and that’s the artistry of Executive Chef Shachi Mehra, who earned her culinary creds at such Indian cuisine hot spots as The Bombay Club in Washington, DC. She (with help from Sous Chef Pawan Mahendro) is leading a staff that was largely unfamiliar with Indian cooking prior to Tamarind, and she’s doing it with aplomb. It’s apparent in her innovative menu; Mehra takes the different ingredients and techniques of the many regions of India and blends them with sustainable products from local purveyors to create contemporary yet traditional dishes that pack a wallop of flavor.

Our culinary “travels” proceeded with the pan-fried taro cakes—a well-proportioned first course that offers good preparation for the progression of spices to come. Four small, round cakes sit atop a chunky tomato-tamarind chutney, and each component brings another layer to the dish. The taro, for instance, is lightly crisped outside, and earthy and silky with a slight nuttiness inside. (They’re made with cumin, cashews and cilantro.) The chutney, meanwhile, adds tang—and just a hint of sweetness. The piquant marriage of flavors and textures pleased my palate (and had me reaching for another cake). Another must-try starter is the chicken tikka.

The meat is moist and tender; the herbs (cilantro and ginger) linger on the tongue; the yogurt-based mint chutney brightens the dish. A tip: if you’ve got any chutney—mint or tomato—left, eat it with your naan. (The restaurant offers a range of the soft, doughy flatbread with ingredients like goat cheese; we ordered the garlic variation.) And be sure to request your naan when you order your appetizers; that way, you’ll have it ready for each sauce that comes your way.

That naan came in more than a little handy while sopping up the sauces for our main courses—the prawn pepper masala for me, and the night’s special, the garlic chile chicken masala for my guest. Both offered a pungent blast of aromas when the lids were removed from their small copper serving pots. And the scents made my mouth water—for more reasons than one. Take, for example, my dish; a hearty helping of prawns peek out of a brilliant, thick reddish-orange sauce with ingredients like black pepper, onions and ginger. The spices elevate the prawns to a new height, giving them a gratifying zing that’s usually lacking in shrimp—and my tongue tingled gleefully with every mouthful. (Get a scoop of basmati rice with the masala, and the sauce will be tamed—just a little.) But it was my guest’s dish that really did it. Her variation of masala offers flavors of cumin and fennel, which come together with the garlic and chile to create a sense-awakening, full-body experience—yep, it gave me chills and made me sweat under my eyes. Some may call that uncomfortable, but I call it heaven. I did, however, need a bit of a respite every now and again—and that was delivered by the smoky heartiness of the three greens saag (a kale, spinach, mustard and garlic combo).

Not to be overlooked are the tandoori kebabs, such as the New Zealand lamb chops, an import direct from the London restaurant—and I can see why this selection made the local cut. The tender meat is marinated in red chilli powder, malt vinegar and green papaya, and then flash-roasted in the tandoor oven, providing an inventive mixture of flavors I savored long after the dish was gone. That is, at least until our dessert: the seven-spiced molten chocolate cake, which boasts a tantalizing blend of cloves, green cardamom, coriander and guajillo peppers (the list goes on). My guest and I breathed in the aroma—it’s sensual, luscious—and then greedily (I’m not ashamed) dug our spoons into the small, round cake. Warm, gooey chocolate oozed out onto the plate, and I scooped up the lava-like mess, added a small helping of ginger ice cream and took a bite—and that’s where my journey at Tamarind ended, because there’s nothing better than that.

Tamarind of London
****
7862 E. Coast Highway, Newport Beach, 949.715.8338, tamarindoflondon.com

HOURS
Mon.-Sat., 5-10:30pm; Sun., 5-9:30pm; happy hour, 4-6pm daily

WHAT IT COSTS
Firsts, $7-$13; tandoori kebabs, $20-$29; entrées, $16-24; sides, $3-$8; dessert, $7-$12

BEST SEAT IN THE HOUSE
Sit near the exhibition kitchen, and you won’t miss a thing.

WHO’S THERE
Indian food aficionados and newbies, Newport Coast denizens, O.C.’s well-heeled, couples out on the town for the night